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As the roof surface ages, it wears and becomes less and less reliable. Eventually it may leak.
But not only old roofs leak. One of the most common causes of roof failures is poor workmanship during installation. The reason this is not readily apparent is that it often takes a few years for a poor installation to manifest itself in a leak. By this time it is all too easy to point the finger at wear and tear.
A leaking roof can be disruptive and costly, causing damage to interior finishes. In some cases it is easy to determine the cause and in other cases it can be difficult to diagnose. In some cases a roof leak will only occur with specific weather conditions. Let’s try to make some sense of this mystery.
Sloped Roofs Shed Water
Sloped roof systems are designed to shed water from one shingle to the next down to the roof edge. Sloped roof systems are not waterproof. Understanding this concept is the first step to understanding how a roof can leak. Flat roof systems, on the other hand, are designed to be waterproof.
It’s All About the Flashing
Roofs don’t normally leak in the middle of a field of shingles or tiles. They leak where there is a roof penetration such as a skylight, chimney, dormer or roof/wall intersection. These critical areas are kept from leaking with flashing. Flashing is usually made up of pieces of metal that are configured so water will shed across the gap between the roof penetration and the roof surface. In many cases, roof leaks can be traced to poorly installed or worn flashing. If you have a roof that leaks, the flashing is the most likely culprit.
Wind and Rain
Roof systems should be designed and installed to accommodate your local climate. On the other hand, it is possible for a perfectly installed and maintained roof to leak given the right combination of wind and rain. Recall that sloped roof surfaces are not waterproof but shed water down the roof.
Ice
In cold climates, ice can cause a perfectly good roof surface to leak. Ice can block the flow of water to the edge of the roof or to the drain. Water can then back up under the shingles and start to leak into the house.
Fake a Clean House
Flip the Cushions.
Make your couch look brand-new just by flipping over the cushions to the other spotless side.
Stack Books.
Gather books and pile them neatly on the edge of a desk, shelf or coffee table with spines facing outward.
Clean Bathroom Magic.
Light a scented candle. Dim the lights to soften the mood to camouflage a less than pristine room.
Declutter Fast.
Don’t have much time to clean? Grab a laundry basket and pass through each room tossing stray items into the basket. Then stash it in a closet.
Make it Smell Great.
A pleasant scent makes guests think the house is cleaner. Place scented candles in a room.
Interior Leaks
In some cases what appears to be a roof surface leak is not a leak at all but rather an interior source of water. Here are some examples –
Air leakage from the house: If household air can leak into the attic, the warm moist air will condense on surfaces in the attic during cold weather. This can cause damage to the roof decking and structural framing and in severe cases cause water to drip back into the house. The usual air leakage paths are; bathroom exhaust vents, plumbing stacks, recessed lighting and attic hatch.
Leaking forced air ducting: If heating and cooling ducting runs through the attic, it should be well sealed. A leaking duct is a big leak of air from the house into the attic and will cause condensation during cold weather.
Air conditioning ducting: If air conditioning ducting runs through the attic, it should be well insulated and should have a vapor barrier. Condensation forms on cold air ducts and can drip down into the ceiling.
Safe at Home with Smoke Alarms
Smoke alarms are an important defense against injury or death in house fires. Statistics from the National Fire Protection Association show that nearly two-thirds of home fire fatalities occur in homes with non-working or missing smoke detectors. Most building codes now require smoke detectors in all residential structures, which has resulted in a steep drop in fire- and smoke-related deaths. Homeowners should check with their local public safety office or fire department for specific information on these requirements.
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As in real estate, location is key! Smoke alarms should be in installed every bedroom, outside every sleeping area, and on each level of the home.
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Alarms should be placed high on a wall or on the ceiling. It’s best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for placement. High, peaked ceilings have dead air space at the top; in these instances smoke alarms should be placed no closer than 3 feet from the highest point.
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For areas close to the kitchen, use a detector with a “hush button” that can be used to silence nuisance alarms triggered by cooking smoke or steam. Alternatively, consider installing a photoelectric alarm near the kitchen, which will not be triggered by cooking. No matter which type is used, never remove the unit’s battery to stop or prevent nuisance alarms.
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There are two primary types of smoke alarm technology: ionization and photoelectric. According to the National Fire Protection Association, ionization alarms are more responsive to flames, while photoelectric alarms are more sensitive to smoldering fires. For the most comprehensive protection, both types or a combination unit should be installed.
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Test each alarm monthly. It’s helpful to put a reminder in the calendar to do this on the first or last day of the month, for example. The units have a test button that will sound the alarm for a moment or two when pressed. Any alarm that fails to sound should have the battery replaced. If the test button fails with a new battery, replace the entire detector immediately. Monthly testing is also an ideal time to dust off the unit so that it continues to work properly.
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Replace the batteries at least once a year. A common rule of thumb is to do this when changing to or from Daylight Saving Time in fall or spring. Remember, a non-working alarm is no better than no alarm at all. Some alarms now come with 10-year lithium batteries that eliminate the need for new batteries, but the unit itself must be replaced after its stated lifespan.
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If the alarms are hard-wired to the home’s electrical system, make sure they are interconnected for maximum effectiveness – meaning that if one alarm is triggered, all of the others will sound as well. Any hard-wired alarms, interconnected or not, should be installed by a licensed electrician for safety and proper operation.
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The newest type of interconnected alarms are wireless. This technology allows detectors to communicate with one another and, like their hard-wired cousins, will sound all of the units at the same time even if just one is triggered initially.